So I went surfing on Saturday 23rd of August, 2008, sounds very simple, it was a long way, around couple years of dreaming :).
It happened!
My body is in pain, even the mussels I have not thought of can be in pain, but my soul is flying. I am bitten and inspired by ocean at the same time:), on level of body a lot of bruises, on level of spirit I feel so high, there is no limit.
We know it is not a destination it is a journey what matters.
The matter of fact, i enjoyed the final result, even it is only beginning of hobby of my life or may be just one day get away at the beach :)!
Let me tell you truth, I was scared, I am not surrounded by surfers, who would say you can do it, pretty much had to keep the spirit up on my own, the last week prior surfing, I started chickened out, I felt or my, it is really going to happen, but if i do not like it, I am not so sport fit and very sensitive for pain. Believe me, it took me some strength not to freak out at last moment :).
3:00 AM wake up :)
4:00 AM on my way to subway, the city is sleeping only bombs are awake, a lot of them :)
5:30 with group of people from Adventure society left the city to NJ shore, around 2 hours drive. It is amazed me difference of area, it is just surfers town, i felt like I am at least in Florida.
We got to a Surf shop around 8, our instructors were waiting for us already outside, they were pretty hot :), but I was quite preoccupied with fear of whole experience :):). We got our surfing suits and surfing boards, looking extremely cute like from a picture.
Carrying the board to the beach was a challenge already, it was pretty heavy for me already.
At the beach we got some instructions, main jumps, seemed pretty easy of course :):) in 10 minutes we were ready for our first group class (on top of it I took private class, funny me, group would be enough :):) for a first time, hey i was dreaming for a long time, i may take whole advantage from it :)).
The bottom line, mostly i was caught by the waves not opposite :), I did not catch the wave :). But just being on top of the water and riding the wave with a speed of wind, it is one of kind experience, even i did not stand :)!!! Hey you got to start somewhere.....I am
By the end of my first class, my instructor Marko was carrying my surfing board, I think he felt like he should carry me too also, I was out of breath pretty much, plus water was coming up from all possible parts of my body. I WAS SMILING! I was suggested to take a break prior my second private class :), one class would be enough :), I paid for a class, I had to go :).
Well in an hour I felt more comfortable with ocean and moves, at least what I thought, I knew a bit what to expect, at least a little bit and this time, I enjoyed my extremely cute-young instructor Billy :). If my first class I could put my right knee up, this time waves were high, forget about knee, how about just to keep myself on the board lol. Billy and me got bounded, he pretty much had to catch me constantly :), I was flying with my board, under :) or without, ocean was flirting, more teasing me, giving little challenge to see if I would get discouraged :). Regardless of moody ocean, me and Billy had a blast.
Even at the end I finally got hit by my board in eyebrow :), I could carry my surfing board myself back to our group :) with running nose and grace, topped with smile.
After 2 hours of surfing, I did not get back surfing :) I just chilled out at the beach. On my way back to the surf shop, I knew how to held my surfing board right and felt a bit different. Building relationship with ocean is useless, it is more accepting one moment at a time and enjoy it, like life itself.
Fear was washed way by salty water of ocean. Salty, tanned and blonde, I experienced myself as never before.
I bought "Gone Surfing" sign and went back to the city.
Life is great, I think I ll be back to SURF :), when my body heal :)
Monday, August 25, 2008
GONE SURFING
So I went surfing on Saturday 23rd of August, 2008, sounds very simple, it was a long way, around couple years of dreaming :).
It happened!
My body is in pain, even the mussels I have not thought of can be in pain, but my soul is flying. I am bitten and inspired by ocean at the same time:), on level of body a lot of bruises, on level of spirit I feel so high, there is no limit.
We know it is not a destination it is a journey what matters.
The matter of fact, i enjoyed the final result, even it is only beginning of hobby of my life or may be just one day get away at the beach :)!
Let me tell you truth, I was scared, I am not surrounded by surfers, who would say you can do it, pretty much had to keep the spirit up on my own, the last week prior surfing, I started chickened out, I felt or my, it is really going to happen, but if i do not like it, I am not so sport fit and very sensitive for pain. Believe me, it took me some strength not to freak out at last moment :).
3:00 AM wake up :)
4:00 AM on my way to subway, the city is sleeping only bombs are awake, a lot of them :)
5:30 with group of people from Adventure society left the city to NJ shore, around 2 hours drive. It is amazed me difference of area, it is just surfers town, i felt like I am at least in Florida.
We got to a Surf shop around 8, our instructors were waiting for us already outside, they were pretty hot :), but I was quite preoccupied with fear of whole experience :):). We got our surfing suits and surfing boards, looking extremely cute like from a picture.
Carrying the board to the beach was a challenge already, it was pretty heavy for me already.
At the beach we got some instructions, main jumps, seemed pretty easy of course :):) in 10 minutes we were ready for our first group class (on top of it I took private class, funny me, group would be enough :):) for a first time, hey i was dreaming for a long time, i may take whole advantage from it :)).
The bottom line, mostly i was caught by the waves not opposite :), I did not catch the wave :). But just being on top of the water and riding the wave with a speed of wind, it is one of kind experience, even i did not stand :)!!! Hey you got to start somewhere.....I am
By the end of my first class, my instructor Marko was carrying my surfing board, I think he felt like he should carry me too also, I was out of breath pretty much, plus water was coming up from all possible parts of my body. I WAS SMILING! I was suggested to take a break prior my second private class :), one class would be enough :), I paid for a class, I had to go :).
Well in an hour I felt more comfortable with ocean and moves, at least what I thought, I knew a bit what to expect, at least a little bit and this time, I enjoyed my extremely cute-young instructor Billy :). If my first class I could put my right knee up, this time waves were high, forget about knee, how about just to keep myself on the board lol. Billy and me got bounded, he pretty much had to catch me constantly :), I was flying with my board, under :) or without, ocean was flirting, more teasing me, giving little challenge to see if I would get discouraged :). Regardless of moody ocean, me and Billy had a blast.
Even at the end I finally got hit by my board in eyebrow :), I could carry my surfing board myself back to our group :) with running nose and grace, topped with smile.
After 2 hours of surfing, I did not get back surfing :) I just chilled out at the beach. On my way back to the surf shop, I knew how to held my surfing board right and felt a bit different. Building relationship with ocean is useless, it is more accepting one moment at a time and enjoy it, like life itself.
Fear was washed way by salty water of ocean. Salty, tanned and blonde, I experienced myself as never before.
I bought "Gone Surfing" sign and went back to the city.
Life is great, I think I ll be back to SURF :), when my body heal :)
It happened!
My body is in pain, even the mussels I have not thought of can be in pain, but my soul is flying. I am bitten and inspired by ocean at the same time:), on level of body a lot of bruises, on level of spirit I feel so high, there is no limit.
We know it is not a destination it is a journey what matters.
The matter of fact, i enjoyed the final result, even it is only beginning of hobby of my life or may be just one day get away at the beach :)!
Let me tell you truth, I was scared, I am not surrounded by surfers, who would say you can do it, pretty much had to keep the spirit up on my own, the last week prior surfing, I started chickened out, I felt or my, it is really going to happen, but if i do not like it, I am not so sport fit and very sensitive for pain. Believe me, it took me some strength not to freak out at last moment :).
3:00 AM wake up :)
4:00 AM on my way to subway, the city is sleeping only bombs are awake, a lot of them :)
5:30 with group of people from Adventure society left the city to NJ shore, around 2 hours drive. It is amazed me difference of area, it is just surfers town, i felt like I am at least in Florida.
We got to a Surf shop around 8, our instructors were waiting for us already outside, they were pretty hot :), but I was quite preoccupied with fear of whole experience :):). We got our surfing suits and surfing boards, looking extremely cute like from a picture.
Carrying the board to the beach was a challenge already, it was pretty heavy for me already.
At the beach we got some instructions, main jumps, seemed pretty easy of course :):) in 10 minutes we were ready for our first group class (on top of it I took private class, funny me, group would be enough :):) for a first time, hey i was dreaming for a long time, i may take whole advantage from it :)).
The bottom line, mostly i was caught by the waves not opposite :), I did not catch the wave :). But just being on top of the water and riding the wave with a speed of wind, it is one of kind experience, even i did not stand :)!!! Hey you got to start somewhere.....I am
By the end of my first class, my instructor Marko was carrying my surfing board, I think he felt like he should carry me too also, I was out of breath pretty much, plus water was coming up from all possible parts of my body. I WAS SMILING! I was suggested to take a break prior my second private class :), one class would be enough :), I paid for a class, I had to go :).
Well in an hour I felt more comfortable with ocean and moves, at least what I thought, I knew a bit what to expect, at least a little bit and this time, I enjoyed my extremely cute-young instructor Billy :). If my first class I could put my right knee up, this time waves were high, forget about knee, how about just to keep myself on the board lol. Billy and me got bounded, he pretty much had to catch me constantly :), I was flying with my board, under :) or without, ocean was flirting, more teasing me, giving little challenge to see if I would get discouraged :). Regardless of moody ocean, me and Billy had a blast.
Even at the end I finally got hit by my board in eyebrow :), I could carry my surfing board myself back to our group :) with running nose and grace, topped with smile.
After 2 hours of surfing, I did not get back surfing :) I just chilled out at the beach. On my way back to the surf shop, I knew how to held my surfing board right and felt a bit different. Building relationship with ocean is useless, it is more accepting one moment at a time and enjoy it, like life itself.
Fear was washed way by salty water of ocean. Salty, tanned and blonde, I experienced myself as never before.
I bought "Gone Surfing" sign and went back to the city.
Life is great, I think I ll be back to SURF :), when my body heal :)
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